My firm gets more calls about leaks around chimneys than about any other
problem. And more often than not, the culprit is the flashing — the sheet metal
that keeps the intersection between the chimney and roof watertight. When water
gets behind faulty flashing, it can do a lot of damage to the roof sheathing and
framing and to the ceiling below, so you need to deal with this problem
immediately.
Proper flashing around a chimney includes two layers. The first is called
step flashing: Sections of L-shaped sheet metal are woven into the shingle
courses and lapped up the side of the chimney. Next comes the counterflashing: A
second layer of metal is embedded in the chimney mortar joints and folded down
to cover the top of the step flashing.
The corners are especially vulnerable. We cut and bend the metal around the
corner. Even in a quality installation, this leaves one small spot that should
be sealed with a high-quality urethane caulk. This caulk can work itself loose
over time. If the flashing looks to be in good condition, recaulking should take
care of the problem. However, caulk is not a substitute for properly overlapped
flashing materials.
The type of metal used for flashing depends on where you live. Aluminum and
galvanized steel are the usual choices in the South where I live. Copper is the
longest-lived, but because it’s expensive, we see it only on high-end jobs here.
Another advantage to copper is that the corners can be soldered for a watertight
connection. In the Northeast, masons are partial to lead flashing, which is soft
and easy to bend to shape. But no matter which material is used, it must be
layered correctly if water is to be kept out.
When the chimney is at the bottom of a roof slope, we always install a
cricket, a small diversion roof that prevents water from pounding the up-roof
part of the chimney. We frame and sheathe crickets just like the rest of the
roof, and then completely cover them with a modified bitumen membrane, which is
folded up under the chimney flashing. We install asphalt shingles over the
membrane to blend the cricket with the rest of the roof.
Because chimneys are such a potential trouble spot, inspect them once every
year or two for loose or missing flashing and cracks in the masonry. Small
cracks can be sealed with caulk designed to repair masonry. I also recommend
that my customers waterproof their brick chimneys every few years with a
silicone-based sealer that can be applied with a garden sprayer. Not all
builders agree, but this is a great way to keep water from seeping into the
brick.
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